Eiii aaaa, what a crazy bubbling country is this Uganda. I’ve spent many “green” and wet days here. After being in Fort Portal I continued 5 days walking direction to the crater lakes. I was walking and walking… I visited so many lakes – Nkuruba, Nyabikere, Nyianabulitwa, Mwamba. Even saw Mahoma falls. One should pay for a permission to look at nature there. I did it without it. At Nkuruba lake immediately after entering the crater lakes district I saw black and white colobus monkeys. Amazing they are! Later I was hiding to photo butterflies and a great dream of mine completed. I met the green mamba snake and touched it. Tale to hand. Happineeesss! A dream fulfilled! She was even posing for me and didn’t try to escape at all. Instinctively I reached for my camera and than I tried to touch her, she was calm but the moment I wanted to hold her, she graciously moved and escaped. An American cyclist I met said to me that butterflies and snakes are the most beautiful creatures ever. And perhaps he is right. To look so close at those creatures is astonishing.
It was getting dark when I approached the next lake. My water finished and I filled in from the lake. Some kids saw me opening my “house-tent” and I was invited to sleep at one of the boys’ home. His mother cooked a fantastic dinner, Kasava – amazing vegetable mix. The universe is on my side with some new friends and I fell asleep content and happy.The boy Deo was a fan of Berbatov and Manchester Utd. His leg was broken and sadly no football for him for a couple of weeks. People are keen on soccer here and older ones even know Stoichkov and Bulgaria. But most of them have no idea where is my country, even think it is in America or Asia, even Africa. hahaha
The next day rumors told me there is a Hippo in the lake, Deo have seen it and I run to look for him. I even dive into the lake and swim to meet him but alas he was hiding. ))) Hippos hide daytime and go out of the water evening at the Sun set. My way was to Kibele and I had to leave. The jungle around the lakes is astonishing! So beautiful. It is a park but there are no walls so I entered it illegally to stay one day deep among the trees and monkeys. Amazing, can’t explain it at all. Speechless. My secret rebel to the unfair authorities gave me such moments of peace, harmony and joy. I saw 5 types of monkeys I know (redhead monkey, red tale tail monkey, blue monkey, of course black and white colobus and so many more I don’t know, so many more.). No glimpse of chimpanzees sadly but may be next time. Paradise indescribable which if you are at my place you too will be captured by the miracle of life. Indeed!
In the late afternoon I went back to the off road road along the plantations of tea and bananas on my way to Uzunga village. Green bananas are use here and no ripe ones for me. Ronald, a new friend teenager, stopped me on my way to the church yard where I planned to sleep. He invited me in front of his house. Immediately as usual 20 kids appeared and shouted at me. They tried to help me which I really don’t like. People with no knowledge more like could destroy my tent than built it and this would be a great, enormous problem ))). So I am distant with such helpers. They begged for money as usual,”muzungu give me money”. Here kids give up when they walk 200m with me unlike in Ethiopia where they go along for kilometers. Still kids here are disgusting. They are more than the adults and the stone rain over my head happened once again. Everyone expect money from me. Even when they invite me this back thought is there. On complete idiot even said that in Europe we eat money and we cover with money sleeping at night. Some of the locals even think my rucksack is full of money. Muzungu is rich and that’s it. Ignorant people! What can I say! ))
Ronald and his family were different though. We spent long hours around the fire, there is no electricity of course. A radio on batteries spread some magical music and we were happy. A baby pig came to me. Uganda is the first country in Africa I see pigs. These people were carpenters and Ronald showed me his first wooden statue of a monkey.
He keeps the key for a room with books. Rarely intelligent boy I admired him the most. Obviously if the locals take u as money machine you’ll have problems. If they understand you are a human being most of them are extremely kind and open. One see the beauty of a human nature and it easy to travel among them. All of us decide what to be at the end – real humans or beasts.
Next on my rout were the Mahoma falls. There was an owner!!! And a tax to pay. I hide and climbed a very difficult slope with all my luggage (my stones and corals from Egypt )) to see them without this artificial barrier. Such beauty again I can not describe!!!
Strange but true most of the people here do not understand why I walk. It is like punishment for them to walk! I explain why I hitchhike and walk several times. No one believes me or understands me. Perhaps they can not imagine the world outside their box or even what an adventure is and how important it is for human nature! They look primitive way at my travel just as transport from one place to another. Not as a journey to oneself and to become witness of the miracles of our planet. Or whatever else, it is so much more… )))
I left this amazing crater lakes area full of emotions and walk my pace to the Queens’ Elizabeth National Park. Three Israeli safari photographers took me hitchhiking. All generations – son, father, grandson. The park is full of lions, leopards, all kind of predators.
And as I love to say, the park has no walls so when they left me in the middle of it I started going deeper . I had a present – dates from Israel which were so delicious that I ate them immediately. Such a joy to mixed again and again with the animals! Antilopas, bisons and at the end his majesty the Elephant! I put up the tent and all night waited for the lions to appear. Half asleep half listening to spot them. A little disappointed, they didn’t visit me but anyway life is good! ))) Next time!
Walking long kilometers again until one car took me to the next town. No national park no animals anymore. I slept there and the next day finally reached Kabele. My clothes sting and tear. While you walk this red mud on the road makes your cloths with spots by the passing cars. A craftsman sews my trousers again. Next couchsurf in Burundi I’ll wash them. Hand washing of course. I slept by invitation in some yard and were thinking about this agricultural land and how life disappears around it. Uganda has 40 million people. In Kebele I filled my food reserves and continued night time to the border. Soon I met a girl and she invited me at her house to sleep. Very difficult for me to sleep under a house roof anymore so I spent the night in the tent again. Her mother and sisters died. One could see the graves in the yard. Her father and mother in low were there and we spent fantastic time together. Ginger tea they prepared and I love it!!! The garden I slept was amazing and freedom in my heart appeared while I was getting asleep. Probably next time I’ll choose only hosts with gardens ))).
Rwanda border was ahead and a car took me quickly there the next day. 10minutes were enough and I entered the country. Very green, plantations - tea and bananas also. I had to wait in Kegali for a longer visa so I decided to take 3 day visa for Burundi. Enough to see a glimpse of it. Night time I went out of Kigali to sleep but a polite policeman talked to me. When he understood what I am planning to do he arranged everything for me. All Kigali police was the next minute there )))) !!!! and some mayor also. She was enormous woman very joyful and open. We talked half an hour. Was she the major of Kigali or not I don’t know but who cares. They took me back down town and I slept on a fantastic lawn next to one office building. Guards, WC… lux!
And here I am walking out of Kigali direction Kiwu Lake. Burundi after it… HAKUNA MATATA ))))