Sudan - My Africa

Only an hour after my last publication, a child succeeded to hit my head with a stone, after all) Well, it had to happen, eventually. After all, they missed so many times, but this little creature had a good sight. The hit was really severe and my head started to spin, but fortunately, I am a tough one and there wasn’t any blood. But the fact, this little bug is still alive, doesn’t give me a peace of mind. I spent my last night in Asuan in camping at the main gate of the port, right next to the policemen’s cabin. The next day, after a really loooong waiting and procedures, I was on the ferry, which turned out to be the most crazy voyage so far. From the morning till the late afternoon, this boiling hot tin-plate ferry loaded NUMEROUS number of people and luggage! At one point, a normal person inevitably starts to think - how this thing is going to flow with so many people and luggage on it. Finally, the ferry took off in sunset and we traveled about 17 hours. The struggle for a meter of free space was brutal! Even if you reserve yourself a place and go to the toilet for 5 minutes, when you come back, there will be at least few bags on the top of yours. Sleeping requires even more extreme measures. For a meter of free space, you have to kick, push, and if, for Christ sake you need to go to the toilet after night falls – you have to walk over hundreds of sleeping Arabs and you will eventually trip over in their thousands of bags (at least 20 bags for a person). When the ferry arrived in Vadi Halfa, we have to survive unreal procedures, queues and most importantly you learn how to jump all the queues)
At the ferry, the atmosphere was different from the hostile Egypt. It is unbelievable how only one lake could open a door to a completely different world. People in Sudan are ANGELS!  They have nothing in common with the Egyptians!! At the ferry, they paid great attention towards my country and culture and I spoke to really intelligent and well-behaved people. They looked descent, all of them spoke English and I could see from the first sight that they were extremely kind and respectful people.
It was the late afternoon when I finally succeeded to deal with all the bureaucracy and reached the exit of Vadi Halfa. Cars to hitchhike – none!  I realized that reaching Hartum wouldn’t be easy. The police officers, who were in a mini police precinct and checked all the passing cars, treated me with tea and after I got tired to wait for a potential lorry or car, I pitched my tent on the back of their cabin. On the morning, I got really early and started walking across the desert. After ten kilometers, maybe, when I just ran out of water, the first car going to Dongola stopped. There were four extremely kind Sudanese. After Dongola, it was easier and I was given a lift to Hartum. Two Sudanese – well, I really cannot describe with words how kind these people were. They convinced me that my expectation about the Sudanese’ kindness was totally underestimated. People in Sudan are maybe the best people in Africa or even in the world. This is my dream country! There is no tourism. That’s why everything is so real and natural, people are honest and friendly and open-minded towards everyone. Sudanese cannot be described with words, but for me, is a great honour and joy to be in a country where people are HUMAN BEINGS and their kindness is real! These two Sudanese took me to Hartum and invited me into their sister’s house, where I met more wonderful people. I met incredibly kind children who would probably never throw stones towards my head. I saw the traditional Sudanese houses and ate traditional food…. I think that whatever I write about these people it would be incomplete to express my positive emotions towards them and their culture. And the Namibian desert is an incredible place! As time passes I start to feel like I am home. Black Africa is my second home and I am going to cry a lot when I have to leave.
Now, I am coach surfing in Hartum with an American lady, who lives here for 3 years. After the last really difficult days of walking, hitchhiking, camping, absence of any shower and above all the often thirstiness because of the lack of water, I am resting now and I am preparing myself for returning into the desert - destination the Meroe pyramids.
The situation with the water is interesting. Once, I had to drink directly from the Nile, but more often I drink from jars left along the streets. Water stinks there, it has got a weird yellow color and there are some tiny pieces floating in it but I feel well and do not have any problems with my stomach. Water, I think, is not purified and comes directly from the Nile, because water running in the tap has the same flavor and the same tiny things floating in it. When it stays few hours in a bottle, though, it starts to stink and you have to drink it when holding your nostrils.

Translated by: Ivelina F



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