Luxor


The last few days were a wonderful adventure for me. After I took my Sudanese visa and spent a fantastic day in Cairo, thanks to a great coach surfer, I headed towards the Nile shores in south direction. The hitchhiking from Cairo to Luxor took me a couple of days, but it was a real fun! The so called East Desert Road is so overcrowded along the Nile that cars give you a lift only to the next town  where you start to walk vigorously again till you get out of it And we shouldn’t forget the numerous invitations for tea, lunch and the hundreds of children who want to be photographed and then they want money for posing One night, I slept over in the desert, another one I slept in the security guards’ cabin of an enormous temple – this happened after I spent the whole evening to explain about my journey to the police officers in the precinct and they truly enjoyed it The hitchhiking itself is almost an impossible mission because of the language barrier ( a lot of people do not speak English). Locals totally cannot understand the idea of hitchhiking because they offered to pay my ticket if I‘d like to use the bus. However, the hitchhiking itself is not bad at all, because a lot of people are willing to give you a lift. Unfortunately, in order to have any communication with the local people you should learn Arabic really quickly, in case you don’t know it. I managed to add some new knowledge in Arabic really fast. In fact, this is a real advantage for me now! At the moment, everyone is shocked how many words I know. I cannot understand all they say, but I do catch separate words in their speech and I know the numbers as well. The difference between here and many other countries is that in Egypt, firstly, you have to learn stuff like ‘go away’, ‘donkey’ and ‘shit’ instead of ‘thank you.’ In short, all kinds of swear words, insults and bullshits are essential for your survival on the street! Egypt is a country totally ruined because of tourism! As you can meet some really wonderful people, you also can encounter to real dregs of society, cheaters, liars and thieves who, unfortunately outnumber the nice people, as well as many simpletons and all kinds of morons who were denied the opportunity to think. These individuals are so many and numerous that sometimes you forget about the many wonderful people who are also there. I met some angels only when I hitchhiked. The rest of the people (at the shops, streets and almost everywhere) helped me to develop my abilities in throwing stones, punching with bottles in the head and to shout all kinds of swear words in Arabic Don’t get me wrong – I had a great time in Egypt, but these people need to show some respect. It is unbelievable how all people live with the idea that foreigners are stupid money machines and locals can sell everything to them at any price they’d like. The shopkeepers feel really stressed when they see I speak a little Arabic and the price falls down as an avalanche The situation with the kids is the most troublesome of all – it’s really sad to hear 4-5 year-old kids to speak only three words in English – ‘money’, ‘give me’ and when you refuse, of course, there is a loud and frightening ‘fuck you’ from the mouth of a little girl!! Well, if this is the whole story it would be fine, but usually the whole situation continues with a flood of stones, which stops at the second I turn around and throw a stone myself. Kids are astonishingly aggressive towards the animals. I saw how a 3-4 year girl was hitting a small duck with a stick while many adults were watching. I slapped her so fiercely that she fell down on the ground. And nobody, I mean nobody indeed even react – if this was Europe an over protective mother would of killed me I had a few similar situations recently and even though my idea is not to interfere into people’s actions and the country itself where I reside for the present moment, when it comes to violence against animals I cannot stay indifferent! And I hope my slap would change this little aggressor. When you take into consideration the fact that Egyptians do not listen to you ( even if you say No a hundred times, the person would continue to harass you, to walk after you and to offer you different goods, services and whatsoever), unfortunately, you have to explain things physically. So, Egypt taught me many things about surviving amongst people who do not respect you or themselves. Egyptians are extremely lazy and they would always prefer the easy way, especially when it comes to fooling stupid foreigners. It was a complete shock to find out exactly how stupid most of the foreigners were. Or maybe, they didn’t want to feel stressed and bought their peace on a double price.
On the other hand, I had the opportunity to meet some very kind and nice people. All this made me feel mixed emotions about Egypt. Nature, on the other hand, is fantastic – the majestic and never ending Nile, the east and the west deserts, palms everywhere, dates, and magnificent birds amongst which one can see heron egrets, many birds of prey and a special species of turtle-doves with brown feathers. Camels and donkeys are everywhere. Lands along the Nile are agricultural lands and it is very green, but a few kilometers inland and all is desert. Sunsets are breathtaking, weather is sunny and I cannot stop enjoying it. I had to be born in Africa. I am in Asuan now, I am going to sleep over at the port and tomorrow morning the ferry to Sudan is leaving. The voyage is going to be 24 hours. The ticket is insanely expensive – 50 dollars, but this ferry is the only open border to get into Sudan. It is unbelievable how much money I had to pay for visiting Sudan – 100 dollars for a visa, 50 for the ferry and 40 dollars for the compulsory registration once I arrive there. I have a great feeling about Sudan, for the hitchhiking in the desert and the real beginning of my journey in black Africa. I have the feeling the journey starts just now. It will be a real adventure to go through 1000 km across the Nubian Desert to Hartum.  I am really impatient to see whether the stories about Sudanese hospitality and kindness were true.



Translated by: Ivelina F

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